Joanna Moore – piping macarons and Maison Bertaux drawings

Piping macarons in kitchen by Joanna Moore

Whilst making macarons on Sunday, my friend Jo Moore (talented artist and blogger) decided to take a break from the baking and do some quick sketches of me piping macarons (you can read her blog post here). In ten minutes, Jo had drawn up this great sketch and it really does look like me in my kitchen! Jo is going to the Prince’s Drawing School in September and is taking as many opportunities as possible to draw whenever she can. Recently, Jo was interviewed for the Spitalfields Life blog about her drawings around Spitalfields. It makes for a fascinating read and is great to hear about someone so passionate for her craft. I find Jo a very inspiring person to be around and no matter how hard the macarons were to bake, we were both laughing all day together in the kitchen. She’s also sketched a great drawing of the Maison Bertaux patisserie in Soho below so I think I will be having to make a stop there soon to try out their great cakes!

Maison Bertaux patisserie by Joanna Moore

The quest for the perfect macaron…

And here it is…I didn’t get my perfect batch of macarons, but I did get this one beauty which was as close as I could get it! It’s about the right size, shape and is filled with yummy dark chocolate ganache (dark chocolate, extra thick double cream and a dash of butter). 6.5 hours of baking for one macaron!! Can you imagine the elation when I stuck the two halves together with gooey choc ganache and it looked pretty good! I was over joyed! I just wished I had created more of them. Apparently, part of the macaron magic is to food process the ground almond until it is super super fine and this helps with smoothness and ensures that the macaron isn’t too heavy so rises just right. Another technique to experiment with. For now though, a little rest from macarons but do let me know any tips you might have and I will revisit macaron making one day soon!

Macaron making!

Pink macaron, french petit fourToday, my friend and I (you can read her wonderful arty blog here) set out to make our first ever marcarons. After a bit of reading this week, I found out I’d been spelling it wrong and really I should be spelling it the French way. Macaroons are those traditional almond meringue biscuits with a cherry or almond on top which your Granny might have baked for you. Or you may have tried coconut macaroons. Macarons are the elusive, delicious French petit fours which come in all sorts of different flavours such as vanilla, chocolate, strawberry and pistachio.

We tried three different recipes and were hoping to pull off strawberry, chocolate and vanilla with salted caramel by the end of the day. We didn’t realise what a huge challenge we had set ourselves. We knew it was going to be difficult after reading lots of blog posts about how hard they were to get right but we thought we have all day, surely we’ll get one batch right.

First up was this strawberry macaron recipe (see pic above). The first batch cracked pretty much as soon as we brought it out of the oven…Hmm we thought – not to worry this is our first batch. The baking parchment we were using from Waitrose’s essential range literally crumbled or stuck to our macarons and rendered them useless. Chocolate macarons, French petit foursNext up was this chocolate macaron recipe from David Lebovitz. This recipe took him seven attempts before he perfected it! We realised we’d made the macarons too small when we’d piped them and we also tried them on the top shelf and the middle shelf of the oven. Middle shelf was definitely the way to go. The grease proof paper ruined those ones too.

After a trip out for some Sainburys greaseproof paper and some lunch we started again. This time we tried this cardamon meringue recipe and adapted it with a couple of drops of vanilla extract and instead of cream of tartar we put in a couple of twists from the salt grinder. Vanilla macarons before going in the ovenWe didn’t have any cardamon pods either. Aha! We were getting closer but still they looked a bit thin and not the lovely plump smooth macarons we were looking for. We tried one more chocolate batch. Nope – they cracked and looked a bit horrendous.

At this point we decided to do the fillings. We used some extra thick double cream and some homemade strawberry jam made by one of the chefs from the British Medical Association who knows my flatmate. Tis delicious strawberry jam, the smell of strawberries knocks you for six in the best fruity way you can imagine. It’s like about 50 punnets of strawberries have been fitted into one jam jar. Vanilla macaron with thick double cream and strawberry jamWe happened upon the idea of vanilla macarons with cream and strawberry jam. It was like a macaron cream tea! Brilliant! We ate loads of them. For the chocolate macarons (the ones we could salvage from the greaseproof paper) we just used the double cream.

My friend had to leave then, she had been baking with me for five hours and took some of the filled macarons with her. By now I was on such a huge sugar high I decided I just had to continue and find the perfect macaron. I peered in the free range egg box…I had just two eggs left. I cleared the decks, washed everything up again, rolled up my sleeves and took a deep breath. I made two more batches, one of the vanilla recipe with a dash of red food colouring and one of the chocolate recipe.

Pink macaronThe pink ones were not bad but I forgot to add the vanilla extract (whoops!) and from the piping I hadn’t got them quite smooth/flat enough, despite letting them dry for a whole hour! Right, one egg left…I prayed to the cake gods that this would be the batch I cooked correctly. I swapped to a different piping nozzle – about 1/2 an inch thick and stumbled across a different piping technique – don’t go swirling round in a circle – you’ll end up piping a macaron which looks more like a dog poo – see pic below! (excuse the crudeness but that’s what the chocolate ones looked like previously). I realised you had to give the piping bag one long squeeze then stop. It is quite hard not to get a little raised bit after you finished piping but after a bit of trial and error, I got the odd one right. Chocolate macaronThen no drying out with this recipe, but I gave the baking sheet about 20 taps on the top of the cooker to smooth out the little raised bits on top. Sure enough some of them started to look like promising macarons. In to the oven they went, gas mark 4, 15 mins, middle shelf.

If anyone out there can offer up a decent macaron recipe which is consistently good, please let me know! I felt like a failed chemist in her science laboratory today. Macaron making is less about cooking and more about science. I’ve never felt such a range of emotions from baking before – there was despondency, excitement, hope, darned right frustration and perplexity. Much scratching of heads and almost foot stamping at failed batch after another.

And did I get my perfect macaron batch? You’ll have to wait ’til the next blog post to find out…

Wallace Collection – afternoon tea at the Wallace restaurant – take 2

Afternoon tea at the Wallace Restaurant in the Wallace Collection A couple of weeks ago, my friend and I re-visited the Wallace Restaurant in the Wallace Collection for a second afternoon tea. (You can read about the first review here). This time we tried the Parisian afternoon tea priced at £24.50. Unfortunately the first time we visited we hadn’t experienced timely service and so the restaurant manager invited us back for complimentary champagne and afternoon tea. We were greeted with two very attentive waiters, one for each of us to push our chairs in! My friend is a vegeterian so I would recommend asking for the English afternoon tea rather than the Parisian one if you are too. The waiter was happy to adapt the afternoon tea though and brought my friend a small selection of cheeses with some grapes.  In the meantime, I tucked into foie gras, goose pate and salmon gravalax with melba toasts.  All were quite tasty but the goose rilette was rather heavy as you would expect. Parisian afternoon tea at the Wallace Restaurant in the Wallace CollectionOn to the cakes, the best bit clearly! There were six in total. I must admit I wasn’t blown away by the majority of them – there was a chocolate raspberry fancy on a lollipop, a treacle tart slice with a hint of orange, a lemon tart slice which I enjoyed the most and a couple of other cakey treats.  From a cake perspective, whilst you couldn’t criticise quantity, having now sampled the English and the Parisian afternoon tea, I would actually choose the English one.  The atmosphere is very serene in the Wallace Restaurant, especially on a sunny afternoon and the perfect compliment for me would be a large scone with lashings of raspberry jam. I actually think I would get just as much enjoyment from having a scone there than splashing out more cash on the full afternoon tea works. If you’ve had an afternoon tea at the Wallace Restaurant, I’d be interested to hear your verdict on it.

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